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Guelaguetza is a spectacular pageant of folkloric dance and music that takes place in Oaxaca over the course of two weeks. It’s known as the máxima fiesta oaxaqueña (final Oaxacan pageant), however in actual fact it’s thought of the biggest folkloric pageant of the Americas. With magnificent handmade costumes, regional dances, and dwell conventional music, it’s a sight to behold. Other than the primary occasion, there are lots of different festivities right now of 12 months in Oaxaca: a mezcal fest and a large-scale theater manufacturing amongst them. 

Even should you select to not go to the primary pageant—we’ll speak extra about that in a second—it’s nonetheless a good time to go to town. There’s no lack of thrilling issues to see, do, and naturally, eat. 

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When is Guelaguetza?

Guelaguetza happens on the 2 Mondays after the pageant celebrating the Virgen del Carmen (Our Girl of Mount Carmel) whose feast day is on July 16. For 2024, that will probably be on July 22 and 29.

Like many indigenous celebrations in Mexico, the Guelaguetza is carefully related to a Catholic vacation just like the Feast of the Virgin of Carmel as a result of a sure syncretism occurred between pre-Hispanic Mexican and Spanish Catholic tradition after the Conquest. 

The Carmel feast is taken into account to be the start of the Guelaguetza season. Since Oaxaca has two church buildings devoted to the Virgin of Carmel, there are lots of celebrations on July 16, together with processions often known as calendas with large monos (paper maché dolls carried by individuals), music, and folkloric dancing.

Should you’re planning to remain for greater than every week, you would possibly wish to come early to attend this occasion earlier than Guelaguetza! 

The historical past behind Guelaguetza

Guelaguetza can also be known as Los Lunes del Cerro as a result of the occasions are held on the Cerro del Fortín, a historic hill that’s the best level of an already elevated metropolis.

Guelaguetza comes from the Zapotec phrase guendalezaa (spellings could fluctuate), which suggests “to cooperate”  or “to supply.” 

The rationale it’s vital to know this phrase is that it’s the conceptual foundation of all the Guelaguetza. The that means behind guelaguetza, not solely as a pageant but in addition as a typical noun, facilities round cooperation, that means “to pitch in” or “to assist out.” This harks again to a time when sharing and mutual help had been maybe extra prevalent. 

The Guelaguetza originated in pre-Hispanic instances when historic Mexicans would honor the Corn Goddess known as the Diosa Centéotl yearly in the course of the summer time with a week-long celebration of rituals, dance, and feasting.

A lot later, within the early a part of the 20 th century, a couple of occasions associated to indigeneity had been held on the Cerro del Fortín. The primary formal Guelaguetza came about in 1950.

Since 1932, the Guelaguetza has been held within the Auditorio Guelaguetza, the Guelaguetza Auditorium, and in 2009 the out of doors house obtained an elevated roof, defending viewers and listeners from the weather.

At the moment, folkloric dance teams known as delegaciones (delegations) from Oaxaca’s eight areas come collectively on today to current their biggest dancers, finest costumes, and most iconic traditions. Be aware that Oaxaca used to have seven areas, and that’s why you’ll nonetheless discover references to Las Siete Regiones.

The eight areas of Oaxaca are:

• Valles Centrales (Central Valleys)
• Costa (Coast, the western coast of Oaxaca)
• Sierra Norte (Northern Mountains)
• Sierra Sur (Southern Mountains)
• Cañada (Mountain Hole, within the northern a part of the state)
• Mixteca (Mixteca area, within the northwest)
• Istmo (Isthmus of Tehuantepec, japanese coast)
• Papaloapan (Papaloapan River Space) 

Issues to know earlier than you go 

Getting tickets to the Guelaguetza will be tough. Tickets are inclined to promote out in a short time and could also be restricted to these with particular financial institution accounts. 

That mentioned, there are a couple of different choices. Free seats do exist, however it is advisable go actually early, maybe at 3:00 a.m. You may additionally be capable of get tickets by paying for a bigger tour of Oaxaca at the moment of 12 months. Should you’re lower than going to the official occasion, giant native accommodations in Oaxaca have Guelaguetza dinner reveals. You may as well watch the Guelaguetza on dwell tv like many Oaxacans do. Lastly, lately there have been some free “in style Guelaguetzas” that emphasize the unique group spirit of the pageant reasonably than a business one.

There are such a lot of different occasions and parades with dancers from the eight areas of Oaxaca right now of 12 months that you simply shouldn’t really feel too dangerous should you didn’t get tickets.

Keep in mind that if you’re bodily challenged, you’ll have to take a taxi, which can be at a premium. Plan forward by going early and anticipating to pay greater than normal. 

The solar will be fairly sturdy and heat, so remember to use sunscreen, convey a great solar hat, and drink loads of water. Anticipate rain within the late afternoons and evenings right now of 12 months.

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Well-liked Guelaguetza occasions

With extra Guelaguetza associated occasions than we are able to presumably point out, we’ve offered you with a couple of highlights.

Donaji

On the Sunday earlier than the Guelaguetza, a theatrical present known as “Donaji, la Leyenda” (Donají, the Legend) is held on the Auditorio Guelaguetza at 8:00 p.m. Though free seats can be found, it is advisable pay for a separate ticket for one of the best seats. Carried out by the Folkloric Ballet of Oaxaca, this present of about 100 performers with fabulous costumes and dancing tells the mythological story of Donají, the daughter of the Zapotec king, Cosijoeza, and the way in falling in love with an enemy warrior, her life was ultimately sacrificed. 

Parades and contests

• Diosa Centéotl (Corn Goddess of the Guelaguetza): An indigenous, Afro-Mexican, or mestiza lady is chosen to symbolize the corn goddess for all the Guelaguetza season.
• Convites (Invitational Parades): These usually happen as soon as every week through the month of July on Sundays, beginning on the Cruz de Piedra then marching by way of the streets with regional dancers of their splendid costumes with music and large puppet-like figures.
• Desfile de Delegaciones (Parade of Delegations): This parade of the Ocho Regiones begins on the Fuente de las Siete Regiones within the Reforma neighborhood and goes to the Alameda de León downtown. You’ll be capable of see representatives in costumes of every of the areas, simply one of many many free occasions throughout Guelaguetza season.

Artisan markets

Particular artisan markets are arrange right now of 12 months. You’ll find them across the zócalo and on the Andador Turístico (Macedonio Alcalá) in entrance of the Santo Domingo Church. They arrange within the morning and are there till 10:00 p.m. or so. Anticipate finding many crafts distributors throughout the Auditorio Guelaguetza as properly. 

Guelaguetza meals, drinks, and occasions

Foods and drinks festivals

There are a number of foods and drinks festivals throughout Guelaguetza time, and we’ve offered you with two of the preferred ones right here.

• Feria de Tejate y Tamal: Tejate is called the bebida de los dioses (drink of the gods), and it positive does style divine. With cacao, cornmeal and the key ingredient—floor mamey seed—strive it together with a tamal or two.
• Feria de Mezcal: Oaxaca is likely one of the main producers of mezcal on a business and personal degree, and the previous saying goes, “Para todo mal, mezcal” (For every thing that ails you, mezcal). Other than having the ability to style and buy all kinds of mezcal, espresso, and artisanal beer, you’ll be able to hearken to every thing from DJs to dwell orchestras.

Meals

• Mole: A thick sauce made with toasted chilis, chocolate, almonds, tomatoes, and spices, normally served over rooster with rice and/or tortillas. 
• Segueza (additionally spelled seguesa): Not normally present in eating places, this can be a thick tomato-based soup made with totally different chilis and thickened with cornmeal. 
• Estofado: A barely candy sauce served over rooster and made with tomatoes, tomatillos, plantains, and spices. 
• Amarillo: Considered one of Oaxaca’s well-known moles! Although recipes fluctuate significantly, that is usually made with rooster and greens in a sauce of chili peppers and spices that’s thickened with cornmeal. 

Drinks

• Chocolate: Oaxacan sizzling chocolate is made with chocolate, spices, and infrequently almonds.  That is ready with a base of water or milk. 
• Chocolate atole: Usually confused with champurrado (atole made with chocolate), this recipe is far more elaborate and made with fermented balam, a bean much like cacao, together with rice, wheat, cacao, and spices whipped right into a froth earlier than serving. 
• Mezcal: A conventional alcohol created from the agave plant, mezcal is available in totally different varieties resembling blanco (younger) and añejo (aged greater than 12 months). 
• Tepache: A pre-Hispanic fermented drink made with pulque, pineapple, cinnamon, and panela, a kind of brown sugar. 
• Agua de horchata: A refreshing cool rice drink usually served with diced melon and pecans.

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Guelaguetza celebrations in the USA

Many Mexican festivals additionally happen in the USA. Though we nonetheless assume the Oaxacan model of Guelaguetza is finest, there are a couple of Guelaguetza festivals in the USA, which we briefly cowl right here.

Los Angeles

Los Angeles has so many Oaxacans (400,000-600,000) part of it’s known as “Oaxacatown.” The Los Angeles Guelaguetza, sponsored by the Organización Regional de Oaxaca (Regional Group of Oaxaca or ORO), has been occurring for over 30 years. Comply with them on social media for extra details about the upcoming occasions in 2024.

Santa Cruz 

The Santa Cruz Guelaguetza that’s held in California truly occurs in April. Just like the Oaxacan pageant, it options “meals, dance, music, crafts.” Should you can’t make it to Oaxaca but, this can be a good substitute.

Kaysville, Utah

Kaysville has a Guelaguetza occasion that’s held across the identical time because the Oaxaca pageant: in 2023, it occurred on July 22. Just like the Oaxacan occasion, it has dance, costumes, and delicious meals. Better of all: it’s free.

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Whether or not you have a good time the various holidays in Mexico at residence or in Mexico, the Guelaguetza is likely one of the most spectacular of all of them. Who wouldn’t wish to take within the one-of-a-kind parades, dancing, and unbelievable meals? 

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Written by Rowena Galavitz 

Rowena Galavitz is a Spanish translator, bilingual copy editor, and language and literature teacher with three grasp’s levels who loves Spanish and all issues Mexico.